Hi all!
I will start my blog with soem old article I wrote for Ejmas.com in 2005. Hopefully this will help you to get to know my style of writing.
Have a nice day!
The following travelogue is a brief description of part of my travels to Japan in March 2005. In this travel I was able to meet my iaido teacher who had retired in the mountains of Shimane prefecture. It had been 5 years since I last met him in Japan and for many reasons I had not had any contact with him for that long period of time and was not able to find where he had moved to in Shimane when he left Osaka. With the help of a fellow budoka in North America I was able to find where he now lived. So I decided to visit him on my next trip.
I arrived in Japan on the first of March at the Kansai airport in Osaka and for the first couple of days I stayed in Kyoto to visit some of my relations at various temples and also my shakuhachi teacher. From there I went to Seki in Gifu prefecture to meet my friend Taro who is a swordsmith, and to pick up the shakujo (monk's staff) he had made for my trip. I stayed in Seki for 2 days and prepared for my trip both physically and mentally at a small Tendai temple before leaving for Shimane.
I left Seki at 5:00am and Taro took me to the nearest Shinkansen station wich was Gifu-Hashima. From there I took the Shinkansen all the way down to the Shin-Yamaguchi station. From there I took a local train all the way to the prefecture of Shimane. While on this local train I started to realize more clearly why my teacher had decided to go back to his native place after so long away. Even if this place is south of the main island in Japan I was surprised at the size of the mountains and even more by the fact that it was full of snow and getting colder with each station we passed. From what I could see and feel this place was truly remote and the nature still intact, indeed this place was the kind of place a budo teacher would choose to retire with the kami and bossatsu (gods and buddhas) deep in the mountains.
I finally arrived in the little town of Tsuwano and went to my ryokan (Japanese style inn). Walking about 3km from the train station I truly felt the cold getting into my bones since I was only dressed up in my monk's travelling garb with only a fundoshi (loincloth) as underwear. Morever my jikatabi (sandals) were starting to get wet from all the snow around me in the streets. As soon as I arrived at the ryokan I asked about the easiest way to get to my teacher's place, and was told I was not mentally sane if I wanted to get there by foot with all the snow that had fallen. Nonetheless the next morning I picked up my shakujo, bowed to them and left for Kakinoki-mura deep in the mountains.
I left the ryokan at 11:00 am and got to the mountain road that led to my teacher's house from Tsuwano. From there I walked deep into the mountains for more than 4 hours before reaching his place. The road to his house was indeed full of snow and also deserted, I saw no cars the whole time and later found out that only one truck in the area can make it up the road. The views, however, were beautiful and helped me forget about the cold a little. My shakujo was getting heavier each step I made, and I started to rely on reciting various texts to keep me going. Eventually I saw a small house with a front gate that had my teacher's family crest and like most Japanese houses, the family name written on a wood plate and for this occasion including the name of his dojo.
I straightened my sleeves and shook the snow off my straw hat and proceeded to knock on the door. Sensei's wife came and opened the door but since I was dressed as a monk did not recognize me. When sensei arrived to greet me at the front door his face looked as if he had seen a ghost. Now remembering the scene I fully understand since it was snowing with grey skies and out of nowhere a monk comes to knock at your door, but turns out to be one of your old students who most of all is a foreigner. Nonetheless I was invited inside and we chatted for a couple of hours about his present life and also why I became a monk. We also remembered how different I was 5 years ago and it reminded us that we never know how life is going to turn out, since who would have planned we would meet again under such conditions. By that time it started to get dark and my teacher offered to have me stay at one of their neighbours a couple of km away but I decided to walk back to Tsuwano for some stupid reason, even after I was invited to stay. So I read a few basic sutras for them and I stepped through the front door agreeing to keep in touch, bowed to them, shook my shakujo, and left.
Back on the road it started to snow again and it got colder each minute as the sun went down. At that time I knew I had to walk fast and get out of those mountains to reach Tsuwano as soon as possible or I would freeze to death. While walking in the dark I only had the sound of my bell, my chanting and the ghosts in the woods to keep me company. It is at that moment that I started to truly understand the hardships that the monks had to go through in the old days, walking from village to village to bring the teachings of Buddhism. Although I was soaking wet and could not feel my feet anymore, I found my true inner strength and kept going, knowing that this little suffering was nothing compared to what many others went through.
When I got out of the mountains I stopped at the first house I could find to ask for shelter since by that time the wind was very strong and I could feel some of my clothes freezing on my body. The old lady at that house was more than happy to welcome this strange monk at such a time. She got me undressed at once all the way down to my fundoshi and took me to the bathroom for a hot bath. When I got out she and her husband invited me in their main room to talk a bit but first I asked to call the ryokan I was supposed to stay at in order to let them know I was OK and not to worry about me. The ryokan called the police to tell them that the strange foreigner was not lost in the mountains after all. When that was done I explained my story to both of my hosts and then was invited to sleep.
The next morning when all my clothes were dry I offered my services as a monk and read the sutras in front of the family butsudan. After I was done my hosts offered to give me money to put me back on the road and help me in my studies. I didn't accept the money but said I would be happy to receive some food instead. My hosts started to laugh saying it was unusual for a monk in Japan to refuse money these days. I then left to pick up my other items at the ryokan before proceeding to back to Kyoto where some other unexepected events happened that I will leave for another travelogue.
PART2
After my
visit to my sensei I bade farewell to my hosts and left for the central part of the village of Tsuwano to catch the train that would take me back to the Shin-Yamaguchi station where I could reach the Shin Kansen back to Kyoto.
A couple of days before I came to Tsuwano they had received quite a bit of snow and still on that morning you could see a lot of it in the streets and on the roofs of most houses. About 300 meters from the street where I had to turn to go to the local train station I saw a sign that indicated the path to a Soto temple. I checked the time and saw that I had a couple of hours to spare so I decided to visit. The temple was located about 2 KM behind the village in a quiet, secluded area. All that could be seen was a couple of houses that I suspect where the houses of the people who worked around the temple.
I reached a steep stone set of stairs that were quite slippery, since they were full of ice, that were leading to the Sanmon (Main gate) of the temple. Before entering the main part of the temple grounds I saw a small shrine and after approaching it saw that a statue of Kobo Daishi (Kukai) was enshrined there. Although this temple was Soto we can see that it had some link with the Shingon Mikkyo (esoteric) school even if the Soto School is considered as a Kengyo (exoteric) school. This can be seen as well in the Rinzai school in various temples but compared to Soto, the Rinzai school links itself to the Tendai school when it comes to Mikkyo.
So I decided before entering to pay my respect to Kobo Daishi by reciting the Komyo shingon. When I entered the temple cloister I heard a bit of noise so I approached and saw an old lady preparing some Omamori (Charms). I greeted her and asked if the head monk was there. She told me to wait a bit. About 5 minutes later the head monk appeared in front of the main hall.
I give him the customary sanrai (3 full bows). Although he was looking in my direction it seemed as if I was not there. I tired to start a conversation explaining from where I came, where I was going... still same thing!!!! I was just not there!!! What the !@#$!!! I said to myself at that time. The only reply I got from him was a hand gesture indicating I should follow him. So I took off my footwear and got up the stairs and into the temple. Once I was inside we proceeded around the temple's multiple gardens.
Each time he would open the shoji to show me the garden, he would stare at something within that made him smile in awe. I tried my best to see what was so wonderful but could not see anything, at least I could not see what he was seeing. So this went on until we saw all the gardens. After the visit was finished he decided to speak to me. He explained that what was so wonderful was only in his heart and could only be seen by him. As a monk, I had already received the jewel (Teachings of the Buddha) and all I had to do was polish it from its raw substance and make it beautiful, but at that time only, would I be able to fully understand its meaning and not before. Enlightment is a personal thing that can not be transmitted. Only the methods to reach it can be transmitted and as a young monk I should never forget this fact. He then bowed to me and left without any other greeting. I still did my 3 bows to him even if he was not present and left for the station.
This leads me to think that the same happens in Budo. You can be taught techniques but the true essence and application of a technique will only be understood by you, so it is useless to try to speak and explain what YOU understand when you teach budo. Just correct the students, make them understand what they did wrong and let time do its work.